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Types of Retinoids

The use of retinoids in anti-aging skin care products has gained popularity. Retinoids refer to a group of ingredients derived from vitamin A. However, there is great variation in the effectiveness of these ingredients in treating signs of aging such as wrinkles and sunspots. Knowing these differences is key to choosing the product that's right for you.

  1. Retinol

    • Retinol is a natural form of vitamin A that is formed in the body by the hydrolysis of retinyl esters. It is the most common form of vitamin A found in over-the-counter skin-care products. Manufacturers of these products suggest that retinol will help get rid of or improve the appearance of wrinkles. However, the degree of response tends to be low, as retinol does not have a direct effect on the skin. Retinol must be converted by enzymes into retinoic acid, which is a slow process that varies among individuals. Concentrations of retinol in these products vary from 0.075 to 1 percent.

    Retinoic Acid

    • Retinoic acid is the active form of vitamin A. All other forms of vitamin A must first be converted to retinoic acid before they can have an effect on your skin. In order to have a beneficial effect, retinoic acid must be delivered in an adequate concentration. You may obtain concentrations from 0.025 to 0.1 percent by prescription. Within three months of consistent use, you will begin to see improvements in your skin elasticity. Skin will feel softer and smoother.

    Retinaldehyde

    • Retinaldehyde has similar effectiveness to retinoic acid in improving skin elasticity and sun damage. A German study by Dr. Joachim Fluhr and colleagues comparing retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid found that although its effectiveness is similar to retinoic acid, it is less irritating to the skin. Retinaldehyde comes in a cream or a gel in concentrations ranging from 0.015 to 0.1 percent.

    Warnings

    • Before beginning a new skin-care product, find out about its side effects. Side effects of retinoic acid include dryness, redness and peeling skin. For this reason, starting off using the product every other day while your skin adjusts to the product is advisable. Retinaldehyde can cause dryness or redness in those with sensitive skin. Since retinol does not have a direct effect on the skin, side effects are rare.

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