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Myristate & Acne

Isopropyl myristate is a chemical used in many cosmetic foundations. It provides the smooth application and feels sheer or "lightweight" while wearing makeup. However, myristate causes a type of acne induced by using cosmetics. The medical term for this type of acne is acne cosmetica. Although the acne is not caused by internal factors like other acne, it has the same appearance such as small whiteheads that typically form on the forehead, chin and cheeks. Comedones, a form of acne, blackhead and pustules can also form with acnegenicity or induced acne. This form of acne does not create scarring.

  1. Significance

    • According to the Environmental Working Group, "Isopropyl myristate is the ester of isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid." It is an oil that has deep penetrating properties. It is the primary ingredient to the rust remover called Liquid Wrench. When left in a beaker for several hours, the oil actually moves over the top, down the sides and onto surrounding surfaces.

    Similar Chemicals

    • Other chemicals have similar properties and can also be used in cosmetics. The Environmental Working Group lists the following: "isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isothermal, putty stearate, isostearyl neopentonate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, octyl sterate, octyl palmitate and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate." They recommend avoiding all of these chemicals.

    Other Cosmetics

    • Many other cosmetic products contain isopropyl myristate or similar chemicals aside from foundations. Examples include concealers, facial powders, lipsticks, eyeshadows, creams, and even hand sanitizers. When using any of these products, cosmetic acne can form over several weeks or even months. When the product is stopped, the acne will clear.

    Testing

    • Cosmetics may have a label stating that it has been tested for acnegenicity, however caution is still encouraged because of the excess oil. Also, use caution when looking for products that are labeled oil free. Synthetic oil substitutes are often used which are technically not oil, however, they have similar "clogging" affects on the pores.

    Considerations

    • Sebum is a natural oil produced by the skin and is believed to be beneficial for the skin. Cosmetic companies use isopropyl myristate to replicate the natural oil, however it is much more potent than sebum. Using cosmetics to cover acne can trigger an "action and reaction" that keeps a person in a cycle of acne prone skin. If you have acne, The Acne Resource Center Online, recommends avoiding the use of cosmetics.

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